Most appliance returns are one of two things: it did not fit, or it was never broken. Ten minutes here prevents both.
Measure first. Twice.
Every listing gives height, width and depth in inches. The gap in your kitchen is the number that matters, and it is almost never the number on the old machine.
- Measure the gap, not the appliance you are replacing. Worktops sag, skirting boards intrude, and a 600mm gap is often 592mm by the time it is built.
- Add clearance. Fridges and fridge freezers need air behind and beside them — check the manufacturer's figure, but 5cm at the back and 2cm each side is a sensible planning minimum.
- Check the depth with the door open. A dishwasher door drops forward; an oven door swings. The listing gives the closed depth, and several also give the open one.
- Measure the route in. Doorways, the turn at the bottom of the stairs, and the gap between the worktop and the island. A fridge freezer that fits its alcove but not your hallway is still a return.
An appliance that does not fit is a change of mind rather than a fault, so the return shipping is yours — and on a pallet item that is not trivial. If you are unsure, email brightboardliving@gmail.com with the gap and the model before you order, and we will check it against the manufacturer's drawing.
Before you decide something is faulty
A large share of "dead on arrival" appliances are working correctly. Run through this first — it takes five minutes and it is the same list we would send you.
| Symptom | Check first |
|---|---|
| Dishwasher will not drain, or leaves standing water in the base | The filter and the drain hose. The filter unscrews from the floor of the machine and is the first thing to check; after that, make sure the drain hose is not kinked behind the appliance or pushed further than 40cm into the standpipe. |
| Fridge or freezer not getting cold | How long it has been standing upright. If it travelled on its side or at an angle, leave it upright and switched off for at least four hours — longer is better — before powering it on. |
| Dishwasher not draining, or leaking at the front | The drain hose kinked behind the machine, and the filter seated properly. Both are the usual cause on a first run. |
| New oven or range cooker smoking on first use | Protective residue on the elements burning off. Run it empty at 200°C for 30 minutes with the window open, then wipe out. This is normal, it smells worse than it is, and it stops. |
| Range cooker hob will not light | The flame failure device. Hold the control in for a few seconds after it lights so the thermocouple heats and holds the gas valve open. |
| Coffee machine producing no pressure | Priming. Most pump machines need a tank-through cycle before the first shot, and the water tank properly seated. |
If it is still wrong after that, email us with a photograph of the fault and of the rating plate — the sticker with the model and serial number. We will sort it, and we will not send you to the manufacturer.
Keeping them working
Anything with a filter
Dishwashers, coffee machines and fridge freezers all have at least one. A blocked filter is the single most common cause of an appliance losing performance and being assumed broken. Rinse or replace on the schedule in the manual, which is usually far more often than people expect.
Anything that heats water
Kettles, coffee machines and dishwashers scale up, and London sits in one of the hardest water areas in the country. Descale every one to three months depending on use. Scale is not a fault and it is not covered by a warranty, but it will eventually stop a machine working.
Oven interiors and hob surfaces
Wipe an enamel oven interior while it is still warm rather than cold — it comes off with soapy water at that point and needs a scourer once it has set. Ceramic hobs want a dedicated cream cleaner, never an abrasive pad.
Fridges and freezers
Leave the ventilation gaps clear, defrost manual units before the ice reaches about half an inch, and check the door seal closes on a sheet of paper you cannot then pull out easily. A failing seal is why a freezer ices up and why the bill climbs.
Energy and running cost
Where a manufacturer states an energy rating or an annual consumption figure, it is in the specification on the listing. Where they do not, we leave it blank rather than estimating — a made-up running cost is worse than none.
Still stuck?
Email brightboardliving@gmail.com with your order number. You will hear back within one business day, and there is no script.